This week my host family and I went on a pilgrimage to Shirdi in the Southern Indian state, Maharashtra. The temple in Shirdi we went to visit is dedicated to Sai Baba an Indian spiritual guru from the 19th century. Sai Baba’s name loosely translates into “poor old man” or holy/saintly father”. The amazing thing about him is that even as a religious leader it is unknown his religious affiliation as he is honored by Muslims, Sikhs, and Hindus alike. He often blended various parts of each religion to preach his main teachings of love, devotion to God, self consciousness and realization, and charity towards others. The temple in Shirdi is considered a major pilgrimage site for Hindus and can have upwards of 20,000 people visit each day.
We left Indore on Wednesday morning and arrived after a 6.5 hour drive on Indian highways with countless annoying “speed breakers” or “rumble strips” that break up our journey and make it less pleasant. I’m not sure who decided to put speed bumps on the highway instead of residential areas but I do know that I am not their friend. Driving into Shirdi I immediately could tell there was something about it that made it distinctly different than any other place I’ve been. In most bustling cities everyone is moving in different directions and fulfilling their own daily plans but in Shirdi everyone seemed to have the same intentions, purpose, and be flowing together towards or away from something, that something being the Sai Baba complex.
After an hour of rest in our hotel we walked a short distance to the complex which could be easily identified not visually but by the constant chanting of songs exuding from the temple onto the streets. Although there were flocks of people going in and out of the entrance there was nothing super official about it from what I could tell. The complex was of course crowded, what else would you expect right? The surroundings were overwhelming. We were exploring the complex during high tea when prayers and chants were being performed. Outside there was a live television feed of Sai Baba in the main temple. The masses of people watching the feed were worshiping and praising in ways as diverse as the population present. Some were kneeling, clapping to their own internal rhythm, singing praises, or even laying face down on the ground to pray. Every now and then someone would shout something and the crowd would lift up their hands and complete the chant praising Sai Baba.
After a brief stop in the Sai Baba museum to see some of his left over possessions and gifts Ranjana and I were joined by Mom and Dad as we waited in line at the Dwarkamai. The Dwarkamai is a mosque in the complex where Sai Baba used to live and also houses the sacred fire, Dhuni, which was started by Sai Baba and has been maintained ever since. After we entering Dwarkamai, the sacred fire was brought through the crowd. Following the fire bearer multitudes of people were rushing with their hands turned outwards towards to fire to bring a blessing to their hearts, eyes, or head. After bowing to the Dhuni and bringing blessings to our hearts from the stairs leading up to the fire and from the Dhuni itself we touched the Padukas or feet carvings under a portrait of Sai Baba and took Udi. Udi are the ashes produced by the fire. They are kept near the exit of the mosque where worshippers can use their right ring finger to place some of the ash in between their eyebrows on their forehead and eat the rest, as it is said that the Udi has healing powers. After going through the Dwarkamai we walked around the complex where I bought my own image of Sai Baba that I can keep in my backpack to bless me where ever I travel!
The next morning we again walked to the temple complex, but maybe with a little more excitement and eagerness because we were actually going to visit Samadhi Mandir, Sai Baba’s temple tomb, the temple people wait upwards of 8 hours to enter. Luckily my family did not have to wait in the 8 hour line because my host father is friends with the minister of Shirdi so we were able to cut to the front. Before entering the complex we bought two roses for each of us to offer to Sai Baba because they were his favorite flowers. Lead by an employee of the minister we quickly weaved around the crowded complex to a side entrance of the temple. After removing our shoes we slipped inside a gate and again were climbing the stairs on the temple bringing blessings from each stair we climbed to our hearts. Once we were inside the temple it was breathtaking. There were three lanes, two bordering each wall with people squirming and pushing towards Sai Baba and one lane in the middle with people departing and worshiping as they inched out of the temple. We went straight up the middle lane and pushed our way towards the glass wall before the marble sculpture of Sai Baba behind his tomb. My host mom and sister had told me while approaching I was to only look into his eyes and read his expression. His expression is different for everyone, smiling if he is pleased with you or upset if you have displeased him. My feet were simply being dragged by other people pushing towards Sai Baba, I was staring intently at his face, and I was overwhelmed with all the sounds, sounds of people wailing prayers to Sai Baba and singing praises as one cohesive group. I eventually made it to the front and dropped my roses at the feet of Sai Baba, brought my hands to my heart, and bowed with my forehead the the god thousands of people all over the world worship. I backed away not turning my back to Sai Baba keeping my hands at my heart as everyone around me continued to worship in complete devotion. Ranjana received a garland that had been placed on the tomb of Sai Baba and joined others who were backing away on their knees bowing and exclaiming praise. After a while the soldiers standing guard eventually started blowing their whistles to shove everyone taking too long out. We backed out of the temple taking blessings from the stairs as we left.
Leaving the temple and the complex was a little surreal. My mom and sister were giddily talking about what expression Sai Baba had shown them. He was all smiles for all of us, so we took it as a blessing for our family. Everyday he is clothed in a different color stole and he was matching with my dad wearing green! My dad and I were matching with him the evening before while wearing white. Those short moments in that temple filled with such intensity were overwhelming and would make anyone of any faith weak in the knees. I am so grateful that my family was able to take me so that I may experience something so completely different from what I have known and something so simply beautiful. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, but I don't think any picture could have captured what was really happening anyways.
This Saturday was a holiday yay! No school! Well, there was a “cultural program” at school to celebrate teachers day but Muskan and I decided sleep was more important. Lord Krishna’s Birthday is celebrated on the 5th. On this day Hindus decorate temples and put Lord Krishna on a small handcrafted swing. We put up streamers, balloons, and gave our Lord Krishna a new outfit. When it was all done our little temple looked great! At midnight we sang a series of chants and prayed to Lord Krishna then joined the whole apartment building downstairs for another similar celebration all together.
We left Indore on Wednesday morning and arrived after a 6.5 hour drive on Indian highways with countless annoying “speed breakers” or “rumble strips” that break up our journey and make it less pleasant. I’m not sure who decided to put speed bumps on the highway instead of residential areas but I do know that I am not their friend. Driving into Shirdi I immediately could tell there was something about it that made it distinctly different than any other place I’ve been. In most bustling cities everyone is moving in different directions and fulfilling their own daily plans but in Shirdi everyone seemed to have the same intentions, purpose, and be flowing together towards or away from something, that something being the Sai Baba complex.
After an hour of rest in our hotel we walked a short distance to the complex which could be easily identified not visually but by the constant chanting of songs exuding from the temple onto the streets. Although there were flocks of people going in and out of the entrance there was nothing super official about it from what I could tell. The complex was of course crowded, what else would you expect right? The surroundings were overwhelming. We were exploring the complex during high tea when prayers and chants were being performed. Outside there was a live television feed of Sai Baba in the main temple. The masses of people watching the feed were worshiping and praising in ways as diverse as the population present. Some were kneeling, clapping to their own internal rhythm, singing praises, or even laying face down on the ground to pray. Every now and then someone would shout something and the crowd would lift up their hands and complete the chant praising Sai Baba.
After a brief stop in the Sai Baba museum to see some of his left over possessions and gifts Ranjana and I were joined by Mom and Dad as we waited in line at the Dwarkamai. The Dwarkamai is a mosque in the complex where Sai Baba used to live and also houses the sacred fire, Dhuni, which was started by Sai Baba and has been maintained ever since. After we entering Dwarkamai, the sacred fire was brought through the crowd. Following the fire bearer multitudes of people were rushing with their hands turned outwards towards to fire to bring a blessing to their hearts, eyes, or head. After bowing to the Dhuni and bringing blessings to our hearts from the stairs leading up to the fire and from the Dhuni itself we touched the Padukas or feet carvings under a portrait of Sai Baba and took Udi. Udi are the ashes produced by the fire. They are kept near the exit of the mosque where worshippers can use their right ring finger to place some of the ash in between their eyebrows on their forehead and eat the rest, as it is said that the Udi has healing powers. After going through the Dwarkamai we walked around the complex where I bought my own image of Sai Baba that I can keep in my backpack to bless me where ever I travel!
The next morning we again walked to the temple complex, but maybe with a little more excitement and eagerness because we were actually going to visit Samadhi Mandir, Sai Baba’s temple tomb, the temple people wait upwards of 8 hours to enter. Luckily my family did not have to wait in the 8 hour line because my host father is friends with the minister of Shirdi so we were able to cut to the front. Before entering the complex we bought two roses for each of us to offer to Sai Baba because they were his favorite flowers. Lead by an employee of the minister we quickly weaved around the crowded complex to a side entrance of the temple. After removing our shoes we slipped inside a gate and again were climbing the stairs on the temple bringing blessings from each stair we climbed to our hearts. Once we were inside the temple it was breathtaking. There were three lanes, two bordering each wall with people squirming and pushing towards Sai Baba and one lane in the middle with people departing and worshiping as they inched out of the temple. We went straight up the middle lane and pushed our way towards the glass wall before the marble sculpture of Sai Baba behind his tomb. My host mom and sister had told me while approaching I was to only look into his eyes and read his expression. His expression is different for everyone, smiling if he is pleased with you or upset if you have displeased him. My feet were simply being dragged by other people pushing towards Sai Baba, I was staring intently at his face, and I was overwhelmed with all the sounds, sounds of people wailing prayers to Sai Baba and singing praises as one cohesive group. I eventually made it to the front and dropped my roses at the feet of Sai Baba, brought my hands to my heart, and bowed with my forehead the the god thousands of people all over the world worship. I backed away not turning my back to Sai Baba keeping my hands at my heart as everyone around me continued to worship in complete devotion. Ranjana received a garland that had been placed on the tomb of Sai Baba and joined others who were backing away on their knees bowing and exclaiming praise. After a while the soldiers standing guard eventually started blowing their whistles to shove everyone taking too long out. We backed out of the temple taking blessings from the stairs as we left.
Leaving the temple and the complex was a little surreal. My mom and sister were giddily talking about what expression Sai Baba had shown them. He was all smiles for all of us, so we took it as a blessing for our family. Everyday he is clothed in a different color stole and he was matching with my dad wearing green! My dad and I were matching with him the evening before while wearing white. Those short moments in that temple filled with such intensity were overwhelming and would make anyone of any faith weak in the knees. I am so grateful that my family was able to take me so that I may experience something so completely different from what I have known and something so simply beautiful. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, but I don't think any picture could have captured what was really happening anyways.
This Saturday was a holiday yay! No school! Well, there was a “cultural program” at school to celebrate teachers day but Muskan and I decided sleep was more important. Lord Krishna’s Birthday is celebrated on the 5th. On this day Hindus decorate temples and put Lord Krishna on a small handcrafted swing. We put up streamers, balloons, and gave our Lord Krishna a new outfit. When it was all done our little temple looked great! At midnight we sang a series of chants and prayed to Lord Krishna then joined the whole apartment building downstairs for another similar celebration all together.
The pilgrimage to Shirdi was absolutely the highlight of my week because things have been kind of hum-drum back at Daly College. One of the girls on exchange decided she did not want to stay for the remaining 8 months and returned to the United States leaving the four of us at Daly College. It is nice that all the drama with her leaving is over so the four of us can continue to grow in our friendships and focus on our Hindi. Besides that my family has been planning another religious pilgrimage to North India to Amritsar, the city with the Golden Temple, and Jammu and Kashmir. I am eager to go on this trip and experience more of India which has been helpful in fighting some frustration about not being proficient in Hindi.